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The SuperTeddyReg is an evolution of the
TeddyReg.
Like the TeddyReg it consists of two stages, a voltage regulator
and a
low pass filter. The voltage regulator is in charge of providing a
stable voltage regardless of variations in the input voltage due to load
or mains voltage variations. In addition it reduces the ripple.
The low pass filter stage cleans the mains noise, and noise generated during the
AC rectification process. The ripple at the output of the rectification bridge and
smoothing capacitors has a saw-tooth form and can reach, depending on
the quality of the capacitors and the load, tens to hundreds of mV. A
signal with saw-tooth form is actually a combination of sine waves
signals at higher frequencies. This ripple is therefore equivalent to noise at all audio frequencies
and above, causing coloration and lose of details. The low pass filter
stage reduces this noise to a very low level.
The SuperTeddyReg was designed to allow positive and negative versions
using the same PCB.
The circuit
(click to see larger image)

The regulator stage
The regulator stage consists of a
current source and a bipolar
transistor configured as a voltage reference (acting like a Zener).
Unlike the TeddyReg, the SuperTeddyReg is no longer using a the LM317
for the regulator stage. Although it provides a good level of voltage
regulation, the LM317 is very noisy, and even the following filter
stage is unable to completely filter this noise.
The Current Source
Q1 and R1 act as current source (for the positive version Lnk1 should be
positioned at the "+" position. Use R1+ and a link instead of R1-). With
a 2SK363BL and 100R the current is around 1.5-2mA.
The Voltage Reference Q2, D1, R2, and R3 act as voltage reference. I have tried various
configurations, and found that this configuration performs better than
anything else. Zener diodes are extremely
noisy, even monolithic voltage references and shunt regulators such as
the LM329 were too
noisy.
The voltage at the base of Q2 is about 2.42V (the LED
voltage + the transistor Vbe), which means that about
0.57mA flows through R3 (when set to 4.2K). The voltage on the Collector of
Q2 is equal to the Vb + Ir3 x R2. Using 42K for R2 we get 2.4 + 0.00057x42000 equals
around 27V. In practice the voltage varies and a 10K
trimmer is recommended for fine tuning.
Comparing to a Zener diode or monolithic voltage references, a
transistor based voltage reference has high output impedance,
but since there is no current through the gate of Q3 the output
impedance has no effect
in this circuit. On the other hand this voltage reference has a
significantly lower noise level which is much more important in this
context.
The voltage reference is followed by a first order low pass filter
Gyrator that cleans part of the ripple. R6 is a bias resistor, it should
be set to allow 1-3mA through Q3. The purpose of this resistor is to
force Q3 into its linear region where it performs better.
The diode is used to accelerate the charging of C1.
The filter stage
The filter stage is a first order low pass filter consisting of
R7, C3 and C4, and Q6 and Q7 acting as Gyrator.
R7 and R8 make a voltage divider and should be calculated to allow a
minimal dropout of 2V on the filter stage. The negative Vgs of Q6
is approximately equal to the positive Vbe of Q7, which means that the output voltage
is approximately the same as the voltage of the voltage divider.
R7a, R8a, and Q5 are optional and act as accelerator, that is,
they charge C3 rapidly and disconnect as soon as C3 reaches the final
voltage defined by R7 and R8. The accelerator circuit is required when
powering DACs, clocks, and other CD circuits where start time is
critical.
Short circuit protection
A 2SK363BL has a current limit of about 12mA, and the D44H11 has a hfe
of about 200, the combination of the two allows a maximum current of around 2.5A. The D44H11
can withstand up to 10A and 50W so in practice the circuit is protected
against short circuits at the output (I have tried it...). Note however
that using jfets with higher Idss will allow higher currents.
Negative version
The SuperTeddyReg PCB was designed to allow implementation of either
positive or negative version on the same PCB. For the negative version:
- Use a wire link instead of R1+ - Use a wire link in the "-" position of Lnk1 - Reverse the polarity of all electrolytic and Tantalum capacitors - Reverse the LED polarity
- Reverse Q1 - Use P channel jfet for Q3 and Q6 (e.g. Toshiba
J74). - Use BC560C for Q2 - Use D45H11 for Q4 and Q7 - Use BC560 for Q5
Sound Quality
The sound of the SuperTeddyReg is better than the TeddyReg, and better
than anything else I have tried so far (I keep saying so with every new
version...). The
effect is all over the spectrum but, as could be expected from the
measurements, especially in low and mid-low frequencies. Piano has more
presence and sounds more natural, drums have even more punch and
dynamics, and everything is more focused and involving.
The SuperTeddycap can be ordered as built and tested modules or as PCB,
ordering info
Construction tips
The SuperTeddyReg is extremely
sensitive to component choice, I therefore
strongly recommend buying the built-and-tested version.
The following tips may help you select the right components in case you
decide to built it yourself.
jfet transistors
I have seen several series of defective/poor quality jfet transistors,
and discovered it only while using noise measurement equipment. These
transistors usually had an Idss outside the specifications. Test the
voltage between the gate and source of the jfet transistors, it should
be negative and between 100-300mV.
Capacitors
C3 is the most critical capacitor. Although you are welcome to
experiment, I have found that mil-spec axial Tantalum perform the best,
you need the Dry type, not the Wet (all the Wet the
I've tried are more expensive and have higher leakage current).
Here again, not every dry mil-spec axial capacitor performs the same,
and you need low leakage capacitors. I have measured the leakage current
of many capacitors and found that the blue Vishay M39003 perform very
well. Alternatively, a pair of 10uF Tantalum SMT can be used, one on top
of the PCB and another below.
For the electrolytic capacitors I often use Rubycon ZLH.
The ceramic capacitor should be X7R or COG/NPO. I often use SMT
capacitors in this position.
Don't use unbranded Tantalum capacitors (unless you can measure their
leakage voltage). Not only that they don't sound good they can explode
and blow other components. AVX are my preferred, and AVX SMT are very
good.
Resistors
I use good quality 1% 0.25W metal film resistors. Since the calculation
of R3 is quite complex, I recommend using a 10K trimmer to set the exact
value.
Assuming a 10K trimmer, R2 should be calculated as follows:
- For output voltage between 20-30V use around 50K
- For output voltage between 10-20V use around 25K
- For output voltage below 10V use around 10K
R8 and R8A should be calculated to allow at least 2V dropout.
The dropout on the second stage (Vdo) can be
calculated using the following formula:
Vdo = Vout / ((R7+R8)/R7) -1)
Using 100K for R7
Vdo = 100 * Vout / R8
or
R8 = 100 * Vout / Vdo
For a dropout of 2.5V
R8 = 40 * Vout
Where R8 is in Kilo Ohm
The SuperTeddyReg design is the
property of Teddy Pardo and is published for non-commercial use
only.
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